“Girls Gone Wild” we are not, so we decided to let our hair down in Marrakech, Morocco.
(This is not us.)
Marrakech is a tale of two cities. We chose to stay in the “Medina,” the thousand year old city inside the walls, rather than outside the fortifications in the upscale, fashionable, “Ville Nouvelle” with all the creature comforts you would find at a 5 star resort. (I’ve never been to the Ville Nouvelle, but I’ve been to Cabo and Palm Springs.)
We enjoyed our very private refuge in a riad—a traditional home of the Moroccan privileged class—that was well disguised at street level and belied the luxury accommodations and world class service behind the thick clay walls.
A traditional Muslim home has no windows (to shield the women) but inside has an open courtyard, often with a fountain, Moroccan tile work (“zillij”), and greenery (often citrus trees), so that the family can enjoy the outdoors out of the public view.
Our riad, Dar Les Cigognes, had a lovely rooftop terrace where we were served mint tea on the night of our arrival and had Moroccan pancakes and honey for breakfast each morning.
Dar Les Cigognes is named for the dozens of storks that build nests the size of Smart Cars and raise their families on top of the wall of the abandoned and decaying sultan’s palace across the street.
Like everything in the Medina, it was a short walk to the Bahia Palais, a 19th century palace built for a favorite wife of the sultan. Our private tour guide gave us our first look at the renowned craftsmanship of Islamic artisans—the zillij, the carved plaster and wood work, the Islamic arches and architecture, the calligraphy, and the grand scale of it all.
It was easy to appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship in the Bahia Palais up close, but without velvet ropes and stern docents, the palace was showing its age.
Marrakech is what it is and has done pretty well for itself in attracting visitors through the centuries without having to spruce up the place for the guests. Unfortunately, the Bahia Palais may eventually look like the ruin of the sultan’s palace across the street from our riad where the storks have made their home.
The focal point and symbol of Marrakech is the famed 12th century Koutoubia minaret. Not all mosques in Morroco will have a minaret, but when they do, there is only one and it is tall and square like this one. In other Muslim countries, mosques usually have multiple, sticklike, cylindrical minarets.
(Note: Generally, there is not usually a palm tree growing out of the roof of the Koutoubia minaret.)
After our tour of the official sights we wandered around the famous souks of Marrakech, the largest market in Morocco.
Then we strolled through the streets and alleys, dodging donkeys, scooters, bicycles, cars, trucks, and buses.
On a quiet afternoon we headed to Djemaa el Fna, the largest square in Africa, famous for the snake and monkey acts. We were warned to stay away at night when it is in all its glory, but also dangerous for out-of-towners.
On the way back to our riad we detoured through the Menara Gardens, passing the camels and the payphone, on stand-by for the tourists.
At the end of the day we walked back home like everyone else.
Lisa Wiseman, M.D., recently retired from private practice pediatrics in Austin, Texas. Photos by Savannah Wiseman, Lisa Wiseman M.D., Debra Hanig, M.D., and Marissa Wiseman.
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